After dark in Port-au-Prince the only people on the streets are the desperate, the vicious, and those with private cars. As my Haitian friend drove through the city center, he gave me a tour guide’s narration of the night sights. “See those boys standing there, with the shaved heads? Street kids. If you want someone killed they’ll do it for two dollars, a dollar. That sidestreet—closed off, too much garbage. More garbage over there. This area on the left, by the water—no one goes there at night, it’s absolutely certain you’ll be killed.”
The reek of the port entered through our open windows and then gave way, as we sped along the deserted boulevard, to a closer human stink. “This wall we’re driving along, on the other side: La Saline. A couple hundred thousand people in there.”...
For just $19.95 a year, get access to new issues and decades' worth of archives on our site.
Print + Online
For $29.95 a year, get new issues delivered to your door and access to our full online archives.